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Field notes

Vietnamese coffee and food, explained.

Five short reads on what we pour and what we ladle, from the phin on the counter to the broth on the stove. Ten minutes with these and the menu will feel like an old friend.

  1. 01CoffeeThe phinA small metal filter, a slow drip and a bean the rest of the world underrates. This is how Vietnam drinks coffee, and why.4 min
  2. 02CoffeeThree coffees you have not had yetEgg, salt and coconut. Each one started as a workaround in a particular city, and each one earns its place on the board.4 min
  3. 03KitchenPhở, properlyA clear broth that takes a day, a bowl that takes ten minutes, and a few habits that make the difference between good and right.5 min
  4. 04KitchenBánh mì, oh so briefA French loaf, rebuilt by Vietnamese hands into the best sandwich in the world. Here is what is in it and why it has to crackle.4 min
  5. 05First visitHow to order like you have been beforeFive words to say, one sauce to understand, and a map of a country in three lines. Nobody minds if you point. This is for those who would rather not.4 min