Kitchen
Bánh mì, oh so brief
Bánh mì is the Vietnamese baguette: a light, crackling loaf packed with pâté, pickles and herbs. Here is what goes in it and why it has to crunch.
2 min
The loaf that stayed
The French brought the baguette to Vietnam, and Vietnam kept it. The words bánh mì simply mean wheat bread. Bakers stretched scarce wheat with rice flour, and the loaf came out lighter and airier than a Paris baguette, with a thin, brittle crust. By accident, it was a better sandwich bread.
Sài Gòn, on the move
The sandwich as we know it came from Sài Gòn, where street shops began splitting the loaf and packing everything inside so it could be eaten in one hand, coffee in the other. It has since travelled with Vietnamese families around the world, and now to Merseyside.
The build
A proper bánh mì is layers that argue with each other. Pâté and a little mayonnaise for richness. The main filling for weight. Quick-pickled carrot and daikon, a mild white radish, for sourness and crunch. Cucumber for cool. A handful of coriander and a few slices of chilli to wake it all up. The bread holds the argument together.
Which one
The classic is the one that started it all: pâté, Vietnamese cold cut and pork floss. Thịt nướng, grilled pork, brings smoke and lemongrass. Gà nướng, grilled chicken, is gentler and juicier. Tofu rán, fried tofu, is not a consolation prize; it takes the pickle and herbs as well as any meat does.
Why it should crackle
Hold it to your ear and squeeze. A good bánh mì crackles and sheds flakes on the plate. That crust is the difference between this and a soft roll, which is why we warm the loaf to order and never leave it to steam in a bag. Eat it within ten minutes. Eat it with a coffee. Do not let it wait for you.
On the boards
- Classic£ 7.95
Pâté, cold cut, floss. The original.
- Thit Nuong£ 8.45
Charcoal-grilled pork, fried shallots.
- Tofu Ran£ 6.95
Plant-based and no less crunchy.