The kitchen
Broth first.
A Vietnamese kitchen by the sea. Phở, the noodle soup, on since the day before. Bánh mì, the baguette, warmed to order. Plates to share in the middle of the table.
The broth.
Everything rests on the broth. Beef bones go into the pot with onion and ginger charred over a flame, then star anise and cinnamon. The char gives depth. The spice gives the scent you notice before the bowl lands.
It is skimmed as it goes so it stays clear. The pot for phở bò, the beef noodle soup, is on for more than twenty-four hours, which means it was started the day before you ordered it. Phở gà, the chicken version, takes poached chicken and a lighter broth.
Taste it first, on its own. Then the herbs, the lime, the chilli.
The bread.
Bánh mì is the Vietnamese baguette, and the loaf has to crackle. We warm it to order and never leave it to steam in a bag. Inside: pâté, quick-pickled carrot and daikon, a mild white radish, cucumber, coriander and fresh chilli.
Four fillings from the board. The Classic, with pâté, pork cold cut and pork floss. Thịt nướng, grilled pork with lemongrass. Gà nướng, grilled chicken thigh. Tofu rán, fried tofu, which takes the pickle and herbs as well as any meat.
The baker will be named on opening.
Van's dressing.
Van is the family cook. Her garlic house dressing runs through the menu: a bowl of it beside the gỏi cuốn, the fresh rice paper rolls, and the chả nem, the crispy spring rolls, and a bowl beside every house plate.
The recipe is Van's. It is not written down anywhere public, and it will stay that way.
Plates to share.
The house plates are the middle of the table. Pork ribs sit in the marinade for more than eight hours, then go under a high heat and are finished with the BBQ blend. Thịt nướng and chả Hà Nội, sliced lemongrass pork with crisp minced pork patties, is the northern favourite. Gà nướng is a chicken leg quarter in lemongrass and turmeric oil, roasted. Cá sốt cà chua is salmon braised in a garlic tomato sauce.
Each comes with jasmine rice or rice vermicelli, a fried egg, a side salad, and Van's dressing.
- 01Broth simmered overnight
- 02Coffee dripped, never pumped
- 03Vegan dishes marked (VG)
Next
Read the boards. Then come and eat.
The full food and drinks boards, as printed. Your first coffee is on us.